marking-gage

When the distance from one center is laid off, the marking-gage may be set to the distance from the point thus obtained to the corner of the timber, and the piece gaged from all four corners both ways.

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The _mortise-gage_, Fig. 217, is a marking-gage with two spurs, with which two parallel lines can be drawn at once, as in laying out mortises.

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It is sometimes advisable, as in laying out chamfers, not to mark their edges with a marking-gage, because the marks will show after the chamfer is planed off.

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The _marking-gage_, Fig. 211, consists of a head or block sliding on a beam or bar, to which it is fixed by means of a set-screw.

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For this purpose a pencil-gage may be made by removing the spur of a marking-gage, and boring in its place a hole to receive a pencil stub with a blunt point, or a small notch may be cut in the back end of the beam, in which a pencil point is held while the gage is worked as usual except that its position is reversed.

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Set the marking-gage at the proper distance from the working face to one cheek of the tenon and gage the end and the two edges between the end and the knife-lines.

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Gage to the required depth on both edges with the marking-gage.

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Whenever there are several tenons of the same size to be cut, they should all be laid out together, that is the marking-gage set once to mark all face cheeks and once to mark all back cheeks.

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Mark the thickness with the marking-gage all around the piece, F, 8-9-10.

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The _cutting-gage_, Fig. 216, is similar to a marking-gage, except that it has a knife-point inserted instead of a spur.

Handwork in Wood William Noyes