esculence

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Gastronomy determines the degree of esculence of every alimentary subject; all are not presentable under the same circumstances.

The physiology of taste; or Transcendental gastronomy. Illustrated by anecdotes of distinguished artists and statesmen of both continents by Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin. Translated from the last Paris edition by Fayette Robinson. 2004
Gastronomy determines the degree of esculence of every alimentary subject; all are not presentable under the same circumstances.

The Physiology of Taste 1755-1826 Brillat-Savarin 1790